There are plenty of beautiful Buddhist temples in Korea, but few can match the spectacular setting of Haedong Yonggungsa (해동용궁사) in Busan.Unlike the traditional mountain temples tucked away in quiet forests, Haedong Yonggungsa sits dramatically along the coastline, overlooking the vast blue sea. It is a temple where the sound of waves accompanies your visit, and where Buddhist architecture meets the rugged beauty of nature.

I arrived at around 10 plus in the morning, and the crowds were already building up. This is clearly a popular tourist attraction, and it isn’t difficult to understand why. The temple offers plenty of wonderful photography spots, with colourful buildings, intricate decorations, statues and breathtaking views of the coastline.

The crisp autumn air made the visit particularly pleasant. However, don’t be fooled by the cool weather. The sun can still be rather scorching, so bring along a cap or hat. An umbrella might seem like a good idea, but with the crowds and some rather narrow pathways, it can be quite impractical.

There is also a gift shop within the temple grounds selling some interesting Buddhist talismans and souvenirs.

I picked up two items as free gifts for Bodhi-Bowl readers. So keep an eye out for their release in the near future!

A Temple That Welcomes Photography

One thing that deserves a special mention is the temple’s photography policy. Photography is allowed inside the main Buddha hall, provided there isn’t a religious ceremony taking place.I think that’s wonderful.Some Buddhist traditions discourage photography of Buddha images. However, I have always felt that the Buddha wouldn’t mind being photographed. After all, taking a photograph of the Buddha could simply mean that someone wishes to keep his image in mind.

There is even an interesting story associated with the Buddha’s final days.According to the Buddhist accounts of the Buddha’s Parinirvana, as the Buddha lay between the twin Sal trees, a monk was standing in a position that obstructed the view of some devas watching from the celestial realm. The Buddha instructed the monk to move aside so that these celestial beings could have an unobstructed view of his final moments.Think about that for a moment. If the Buddha was considerate enough to accommodate the devas who wished to witness his Parinirvana, I find it hard to imagine that he would object to someone taking a photograph of his image out of reverence or appreciation.Of course, this is my personal interpretation, and different Buddhist communities may have their own reasons for maintaining photography restrictions.Nevertheless, a thumbs-up to Haedong Yonggungsa for allowing visitors to take photographs respectfully!

Leaving a Wish Behind

Another interesting feature within the temple grounds is the various stations where visitors can write down their wishes and prayers.One particularly beautiful sight is the collection of gold-leaf wishes hanging from a high trellis.

Under the sunlight, the golden leaves sparkle as the sea breeze gently sets them fluttering. It makes for a rather enchanting sight.

I decided to do something a little different. For 10 dollars, I purchased a temple roof tile on which I could write my own wish.I thought this was a rather innovative way for temples to raise funds.Instead of simply asking devotees to contribute towards replacing roof tiles, the temple gives them an opportunity to leave a personal message or aspiration on one. The tiles will eventually become part of the temple’s roof, allowing the wishes to rest above the temple grounds, almost as though they are being offered to the heavens.

It is a lovely arrangement. You contribute towards the temple’s upkeep while leaving behind something meaningful.Naturally, I did my fair share. My wish was for Bodhi-Bowl to reach more people and hopefully introduce the Buddha’s teachings to a wider audience.May the aspiration come to fruition! Can you spot my tile?

A Moment of Quiet Amidst the Crowd

My final stop was the magnificent statue of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva overlooking the sea.By this time, the area was bustling with tourists. Everyone seemed busy taking photographs, while children ran about excitedly. It was hardly the peaceful atmosphere one might associate with a Buddhist shrine.There were outdoor prayer mats and kneeling stools nearby. Since I was already there, I decided to follow my usual practice: prostrate before the Bodhisattva and softly recite my mantra.It wasn’t easy.With people talking, cameras clicking and children running around, I really had to concentrate and shut out the distractions. It was a little exercise in mindfulness in itself.Then, in the midst of that focused concentration, I caught a flash of red light.Nothing particularly spectacular, and I wouldn’t claim it was anything extraordinary. But it was a pleasant little moment, and good enough for me.What happened next was perhaps even more interesting.I noticed that some other visitors had also begun to prostrate and pray. Perhaps they had initially felt a little shy or self-conscious about doing so in front of so many tourists. After all, nobody particularly wants to become an unexpected subject in someone else’s holiday photograph!But gradually, more people seemed willing to pay their respects, and the atmosphere became a little quieter.I also spotted some Korean teenagers attempting to prostrate. Their technique, however, was rather unconventional! With a touch of youthful rebellion, their movements resembled a sort of dance-drop followed by a kneeling position.I couldn’t help smiling to myself.It reminded me of some of the children at a Dharma camp I participated in many years ago. They too had their own rather creative interpretations of how to perform a prostration.Some things never change. Children will always find their own way of doing things!

More Than Just a Tourist Attraction

Haedong Yonggungsa is undoubtedly a beautiful temple, and its seaside setting makes it one of Busan’s most photogenic attractions.But for me, the visit offered something beyond the usual sightseeing experience.There were golden wishes fluttering in the sea breeze, roof tiles carrying the aspirations of devotees, a temple that welcomed photography, and even a little opportunity to practise mindfulness amid a noisy crowd.Perhaps that is what makes a Buddhist temple interesting. It doesn’t always have to be silent and secluded for us to find a moment of connection.Sometimes, we just need to pause, pay our respects and look beyond the distractions around us.And sometimes, even a rather unconventional prostration by a group of Korean teenagers can bring a smile to your face.Namo Buddhaya!

May all be well and Happy.