Sometimes the nicest places you discover while travelling are those that were never on your itinerary.

While staying near Haeundae Beach in Busan, I happened to notice Haeunjeongsa (해운정사) on Google Maps. It looked interesting enough for a visit, and since it was only about seven minutes away by taxi or a 20-minute walk from the beach, I decided to make a little detour.

I am glad I did.

Haeunjeongsa is a Buddhist temple tucked away on the hillside of Haeundae. It is perhaps not the first place that comes to mind when visiting this part of Busan, better known for its beaches, shopping and towering hotels. Yet, away from the usual tourist attractions, this temple offers a lovely change of atmosphere.

The temple was founded in 1971 by Seon Master Jinje Beopwon (진제 법원), an influential figure in Korean Seon Buddhism. Although relatively young compared with Korea’s ancient temples, Haeunjeongsa has a rather interesting Buddhist heritage.

Jinje inherited the Korean Seon tradition through his teacher, Master Hyanggok, whose lineage can be traced through earlier masters including Unbong, Hyewol and Gyeongheo. This is part of the Linji (Imje) tradition of Chan Buddhism, which emphasises direct insight into one’s true nature through meditation.

One particularly beautiful expression of this tradition is the idea of Deungdeung Sangsok – one lamp lighting another, passing the light of the Dharma from teacher to student, generation after generation. The temple actually preserves historical documents recording this transmission of the Seon lineage.

It is quite remarkable to find such an important centre of meditation in the middle of modern Haeundae.

When I arrived, a chanting session was already taking place inside the main hall. Rather than interrupt the congregation, I quietly stepped inside and stood towards the back, close to the exit. I simply wanted to enjoy the religious atmosphere without disturbing anyone.

For a little while, I stood there listening to the chanting. I silently recited the Great Compassion Mantra along with my own thoughts, allowing myself to settle into the moment.

There was something rather comforting about being in that space. No sightseeing agenda, no photographs to take, no rush to get somewhere else. Just the sound of chanting and a quiet moment of personal devotion.

The temple itself was beautiful, with its traditional Korean architecture, colourful decorations and peaceful courtyards. One of its interesting features is a three-storey stone pagoda believed to date back to the Silla period, more than a thousand years ago. Although Haeunjeongsa is a modern temple, this pagoda connects it to a much older chapter of Korean Buddhist history.

Another interesting feature is its role as an active meditation centre. It has facilities not only for monks but also for lay practitioners who wish to experience Seon meditation. I find this particularly meaningful, as Buddhist practice is not confined to monastics; ordinary people can also make time to cultivate their minds.

Perhaps what made my visit especially enjoyable was the weather. The autumn air was crisp and wonderfully cool, accompanied by a gentle sea breeze. Standing within the temple grounds, I could enjoy the peaceful surroundings without the crowds and noise of the beach.

It was an unexpected little discovery, but sometimes these unplanned stops turn out to be the most memorable parts of a trip.

Haeundae may be famous for its seaside scenery, but I found another side of it at Haeunjeongsa – a place where the sound of chanting, the cool autumn breeze and a little moment of stillness made for a rather lovely afternoon.

May all be well and Happy.